Reworking McCall’s M7789: The Lilac Linen Series | From Muslin to Magic 🪡 🧵

There is something powerful about making a garment from the ground up. When you slow down, trust your hands, and let the fabric guide you, the entire process becomes more than sewing. It becomes a story. The Lilac Linen Series has been one of my favorite journeys so far because it reminded me why I fell in love with creating clothing in the first place.

This jumpsuit taught me patience, intention, and creativity. It stretched my skills and pushed me to trust myself even when things did not go as planned. Every step felt like a conversation with the fabric and with my own growth as a designer and sewist.

Starting with the Muslin

 

I began with a full muslin mock up on my dress form to check the fit and make adjustments for my body. In my forties, I dress for the woman I am today. My body has changed, and I honor those changes in my sewing. I added extra room where I needed it and shaped the bodice and midriff to create a clean and flattering fit.

Muslin is where the problem solving happens. It is where you get honest about what works and what does not. Once the foundation was right, I felt ready to move into the real fabric.

Falling in Love with Lilac Linen

When the lilac linen arrived, I knew immediately it was the right choice. Soft. Airy. Feminine. A color that feels like calm confidence. Linen wrinkles easily, but it has a richness and honesty that I love. You have to work with it, not against it.

Before cutting into it, I took my time. I lit a warm mahogany vanilla candle, turned on soft music, and set the entire mood. Sewing is therapy for me, and the vibe has to be right.

Ironing, Smoothing, and Preparing

The linen needed a lot of pressing. I ironed it once, folded it, then ironed it again. Linen responds beautifully to heat and steam. My clapper became my best friend during this process. Press. Steam. Clap. Repeat.

Cutting and an Unexpected Problem

When it was time to cut the pattern pieces, I laid everything out on the floor. I was excited. Maybe a little too excited. Because once I started cutting, I realized I did not have enough linen to cut out the lining for pattern piece number one.

I could have panicked, but improvisation is part of the creative process.

I went to my fabric stash and found a beautiful lilac satin. The shade matched perfectly. I knew I would need to interface it to mimic the structure of linen, so I did. What started as a mistake became a beautiful design choice. The satin lining added a luxurious detail that I did not even plan for.

Hand Basting and Clean Finishing

 

Once the bodice and midriff were constructed, I hand basted the inside midriff lining to the pants. Hand basting is slow work, but it creates a clean and secure finish that machines alone cannot always achieve.

I turned the jumpsuit inside out to show the lining, and I honestly loved how the satin looked against the lilac linen. It felt custom and intentional.

Then I turned the garment right side out again and began pressing. Linen needs heat, so I pressed everything carefully to prepare for topstitching. When it was time to sew the midriff topstitch line, I went slow. This is the part everyone sees, so it needs to be straight and smooth.

Installing the Zipper

The zipper was the most technical part of the project. I pinned the back seam, checked the alignment, pressed it flat, and used my clapper to lock in those seams. Then I hand basted the zipper in place because linen shifts easily under the feed dogs.

I removed the original basting stitches, sewed the zipper down, and trimmed the excess. The result was a smooth and flawless zipper that opened and closed beautifully.

Serging and Hemming

Linen frays easily, so I used my serger to finish every raw edge. The serged seams looked so clean and professional. It made the entire inside of the jumpsuit feel like a boutique level garment.

For the hem, I folded the pants up, pressed them, pinned them, used my seam gauge to check the length, and stitched everything with precision. I pressed the hem again and folded it once more to enclose the serged edge. Every step was intentional.

Letting the Linen Rest

Once the hemming was complete, I clipped the final threads and hung the jumpsuit up overnight. Linen needs time to fall and settle into its true drape. Allowing your garment to rest is one of the best things you can do for a professional finish.

Watch the Full Sewing Video on YouTube

 

If you want to see the entire process from start to finish, including all the sewing steps, the hand basting, the zipper installation, and the final reveal, you can watch the complete Lilac Linen Series video on my YouTube channel.

• You can watch it here:
  

A Handmade Piece with Heart

This lilac linen jumpsuit holds so much meaning. It carries every moment of patience, every adjustment, every press of the iron, every slip stitch. And it shows the beauty of creating something for yourself, by yourself.

Sewing will always be a reminder that we can reinvent, reshape, adjust, and grow at any stage in life. There is no age limit on creativity. No expiration date on style. And no rules when you are making something with intention and love.

Thank you for following the Lilac Linen Series. I cannot wait to make more pieces and share more stories with you.

🫛

With love,

Stacey